Inexpensive 128 x 64 OLED monochrome displays.
https://startingelectronics.org/tutorials/arduino/modules/OLED-128×64-I2C-display/
Inexpensive 128 x 64 OLED monochrome displays.
https://startingelectronics.org/tutorials/arduino/modules/OLED-128×64-I2C-display/
Picked up a couple of dead hi-fi amps, one of them being this nice Rotel RA-820. Opened it up, gave it a clean and replaced all the electrolytics and back in business. Now sitting in the garage hi-fi cabinet for when I’m working down there.

Useful links:
The other amp is a Cambridge Audio A-300 (like this A-500) but it looks to be in rather a sorry state, with at least one blown output stage. Have to work out whether that one is going to be worth restoring, or may get rebuilt as a chip amp …
Here’s a really easy demonstration of how you can control outputs on the NodeMCU with a simple web interface. The NodeMCU runs as a simple web server, writing a control panel interface directly as HTML.
The circuit is very simple, just four LEDs with resistors wired to outputs of the NodeMCU.
Here’s the wiring I used, which matches the code.
In Arduino code, GPIO numbers map to Arduino digital outputs, so to turn on yellow LED use digitalWrite(5, HIGH)
A series of articles on ‘Cheap Asian’ Electronic Modules
Passive Infra-Red sensor detects movement.
I bought a Raspberry Pi camera to go with the RPi 3 for the school project. The eventual intention is to put it on our tank robot so we can see what it is seeing.
Following on from the previous tutorial IoT: Raspberry Pi Robot with Video Streamer and Pan/Tilt camera remote control over internet I installed streaming software, plugged in the camera and crossed my fingers. Loading the page showed some promise except I’d turned the lights off in the server room when I went away, so I had a square of black. Back to the server room, then back to my computer to find I was looking at the roof of the server room.
It works!

My son entered Science Talent Search with this Arduino-powered buggy. We used IR with a TV remote to issue codes for motor control and combinations of colours for the RGB LEDs.

Programming was fairly simple, but we found issues with power. It seems that motors are very noisy and when they run it can reset the Arduino. We solved this by running the motor off 4 x AA batteries, whilst the Arduino is powered by a phone battery booster. The Arduino in question is actually a Freetronics Leostick, which is a nice small board, and has a USB plug which we just plugged straight into the phone battery.
This is the second Raspberry Pi I’ve bought, this one is for school projects. The really neat feature is that it has built-in WiFi.
Now it’s time to tackle some specific jobs we need for projects.
So it’s been busy, and school is just about to go back. I did find time to try out my Christmas present so I opened up the kit, plugged in the SD card and WiPi adaptor, hooked up peripherals that normally are hooked up to the Mac Mini, plugged in the power and we’re up and running. A few clicks and we’ve joined the network and posting a new item on this blog!
So this project had been sitting on my desk for ages now with the sensors and RF module spread across two breadboards with a mess of wire connecting it all up. Today I finally found some time to add the RF module to a prototyping shield. The other sensors are still on a breadboard and that’s the extra wires hanging off it, but it’s one step closer to a finished project. Some of the soldering was a bit fiddly but worked straight off.